BRAKES

Adjusting Brakes by Ross Hiller   ( from the Florida Packard Club newsletter, The Packard Courier October 2004.)
   This tip is for cars with hydraulic brakes only.  When adjusting brakes, loosen the handbrake adjustment at the equalizer (at the center of the "X" in the frame) until the cables are quite slack. In fact, push, them into their sheathes as far as you can. This insures that the rear brake shoes are not being held apart by the parking brake mechanism. Now, adjust the rear brakes using the star wheel. I recommend tightening the star wheel (pull up on the end of your adjusting tool) until the wheel can no longer be turned. This settles the shoes firmly against their anchors. Then, back the star wheels off about 10 clicks or so till there is no appreciable drag on the drum.
   After adjusting both rear wheels, readjust the hand. brake mechanism:

1.    Pull the handbrake out about 3 clicks.
2.    Tighten the equalizer until you cannot turn the rear drums .with your hands.
3.    Release the handbrake and make sure there is not excessive drag at the rear wheels.

   Adjusting the brakes in this way will let the rear shoes have full contact. with the drum. and will let them have the self-energizing "servo" action they were designed for. This will result in lighter pedal pressure, less brake fade. and longer lining life. Most complaints about "push and pray" brakes can be solved in this way.
   If your car has one of those little cable shortening gizmos on the handbrake cable, I can guarantee the brakes are not adjusted properly. I have not yet seen a case where the cables were stretched and needed such a thing. I have however put about a dozen of them in the trash after adjusting the brakes properly.

   TOP

COOLING
Checking Your Antifreeze by Jerry Kurtz  (From Keystone Region Chapter-Keystone Keynotes April 2001)
   If you're like most of us, we open the radiator cap, look to see if the fluid is green, the right number of balls float in our tester, and there isn't too much brown stuff floating around. We then consider the radiator serviced and put the cap back on.
Permanent antifreeze is permanent in name only. In reality antifreeze needs to be changed periodically like we change other fluids in our car. Antifreeze has a life of approximately 3 years, however the inhibitors don't last that long so it really is a good idea to change it annually.
   An accurate test to determine the viability of your antifreeze is to attach the positive lead from a digital volt-ohm meter to the metal part of the radiator, then center the negative lead into the coolant itself. A voltage reading of 0.2 or less is very good. A reading of 0.5 should be considered borderline, while anything over 0.7 is unacceptable.
   If your coolant fails this test the coolant system should be drained and flushed and fresh antifreeze should be added.
   There is a new generation of "lifetime" antifreezes being promoted. Do not mix these with the ethylene glycol antifreeze that has been in use for the last sixty years, as they are not compatible. I do not recommend using lifetime antifreeze in collector cars. I understand that it will seep everywhere, including into the cylinder areas, in cars not assembled with the newer rubber bonded steel gaskets.
    TOP

ELECTRIC
Erratic charging:  by Fred Birdsell (From Western Lake Erie Chapter-The Driver's Seat)
   On 12-volt generator systems, the voltage regulators are very troublesome. Erratic charging is the least of the problem. In the worst case, points will stick, fusing the wiring into a very hot glow plug. We have had this happen with two of our Hawks. It's no fun replacing the wiring harness.
   Alternator cars are NOT immune. If a diode fails, a dead short can also occur. Because this happens VERY quickly, even a  battery cut-off switch will not prevent major damage. The best solution I am aware of, is to install a circuit breaker on the battery terminal of the voltage regulator. Ask NAPA for an Ecklin circuit breaker #CB 6379 (50 amp). The breaker will have two posts. Bolt one to the BATTERY post of the regulator, the other to the wire to that post.
   A second solution (less likely to cause a point deduction during show judging) is to install a fusible link in the wire connecting the starter solenoid to the ammeter (see your shop manual). The fusible link wire needs to be 4 gauges smaller than the ammeter wire.
   Take the wire off the "BAT" terminal of the regulator and attach it to the "AUX" terminal of the circuit breaker. Then make a new wire (of adequate gage, of course) to go between the "BAT" terminal of the circuit breaker and the "BAT" terminal of the regulator.

   TOP

ENGINE

    TOP

EXHAUST

    TOP

FRAME & SPRINGS
    TOP

FRONT SUSPENSION
    TOP

FUEL
    TOP

TRANSMISSION
Ultra 400 (TH400) Transmission Conversion: By Jack Nordstrom (56J ONLY issue 021)
  See the story  on this TH400 Conversion     TOP

PROPELLER SHAFT
    TOP

REAR AXLE
    TOP

STEERING
Steering Wheel Adapter: By Jim Morgan (56J ONLY issue 021)
 Grant Steering Wheel adapters are available from Discount Auto Parts for 1956 Golden Hawks and other Studebakers. The adapter allows you to put an aftermarket, and smaller diameter, steering wheel on your car.
   APPLICATION        KIT #
   56-66 Hawk/Lark    4291
   57-66 Other             4401
   63-65 Avanti            4286
.    TOP

WHEELS

WHEELS AND TIRES     What to put on

Our 1956 Golden Hawks came standard with 15"X5" wheels and 7:10-15 tires. The closest equivalent radial tires are P205/75R15, P215/75R15 and P225/75R15. The following table shows various specifications which I took from the Coker Tire Catalog:

Diameter is the distance from the ground to the top of the tire. Rim Width is the size of the wheel itself (2^nd # of the wheel size as 15X5)

•     You can keep your original wheels and use a P205/75R15 tire.

•     You can buy new wider wheels and use the P215/75R15 or P225/75R15 tire.

Bob Palma states that you can buy Nationl Wheel & Rim Association (NWRA) #40273, or Hayes #82552 wheels which will allow use of a P205 or P215 radial tire.

INSTRUMENTS
Tachometer Troubles: By Geoff Fors (56J ONLY issue 010)
  A member wrote that his tach would fall to zero above 1000 rpm and sometimes stay there for the rest of the time the engine was running. I had the same problem and discovered that the tach head, unlike most tachs, is not just a big meter but actually has a motor inside it which requires cleaning and lubrication of its bearings just like any other motor. The tach head motor apparently operates like a synchro motor as found in aircraft, and if the tach motor bearings are somewhat dry it isn't able to spin as easily above engine rpm of 1000 or so and it then lags behind the distributor signal enough to finally fall to zero. The tach motor is designed to stay in step with the distributor rotor and anything that interferes with this relationship will cause the tach motor to stop turning. If the idle of the engine is low enough, the tach needle may start working again when the engine is brought back to idle because the pulse lengths from the distributor sender are longer and provide the voltage necessary to get the tach motor started again from a dead stop. I am trying to find a suitable oil to use in the tach bearings. Some sort of clock oil or delicate instrument oil would probably be correct. For goodness' sake, I hope everyone knows by now not to use WD-40 in clocks or instruments ! A good shop which advertises tach repair in Hemmings may be able to help. If they aren't familiar with S-W "Pulsemotor Drive" tachs, though, look elsewhere.
     TOP

Tachometer problems:  by Nate Nagel (56J ONLY Message Group)
   See Nate's comprehensive description on his web site at   http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel/tach.html   

   TOP